Northwest of Kyoto's Centre

After four nights in Kyoto it was time to head a little further out.  I grabbed the local JR train that heads northwest, the Sagano Line.  My first of two stops was at the Hanazono Station.  From there I walked to the Kinkaku-ji temple one of three World Heritage Sites that you can visit in this area.

Kinkaku dates from the 14th Century and gets its name from the main building on the site - the Golden Pavilion.  The original is no longer standing and what you see is a 1955 version.  It was burned down numerous times (twice during the Onin War of the late 15th Century and more recently, in 1950, by a deranged monk!).  The building is almost completely covered in gold-leaf.  It makes for quite the site on the edge of a pond.


I then walked on to another World Heritage Site - the Ryoan-ji Temple.  It's claim to fame is its dry landscape rock garden.  It is believed to have been built in the late 15th Century and is one of the world's most famous.  Seeing it in a peaceful environment must be a very calming and satisfying experience.  Unfortunately I was surrounded by high school students and, since I am unable to shut them out, I did not find any enlightenment ;-)


I made my way back to Hanazono Station, got on the JR Line and got off at Saga Arashiyama. my second stop of the day.  Since I was "templed out" I did not visit the Tenryu-ji Temple, yet another World Heritage Site.  Rather I walked along the Katsura and Hozu Rivers and into the mountains around Kameyama Park.  You can sometimes see wild monkeys in this park but I, unfortunately, did not see any.  The trails lead out of the park and into the hills and, yet again, I must say that I wish I had a hiking book for these areas.  Oh well.  The valley in which the Hozu River flows is quite steep and narrow and is also densely forested.  The leaves were starting to turn.  The rivers runs a jade like green and navigating it were numerous tourist boats propelled by men pushing on bamboo rods.  It left me with a sense of southeast Asia.



After my walk into the hills and forests I went to the Bamboo Path.  This is a path cut out of a bamboo grove.  And what a bamboo grove it is.  These plants are a good six or seven storeys high I would say.  A great deal of this part of Kyoto (called Arashimaya) is forested with bamboo.  Again a feeling of southeast Asia arose in me, rather than Japan.


All in all a great day and easy train ride out of Kyoto.  I woke up at 7am, had breakfast, walked to the train station in Kyoto and, with my walk, was at the Kinkaku-ji at 8:45am, fifteen minutes prior to opening.  I'd guess there were a thousand people there waiting for the gates to open at 9:00am, mostly school field trips.

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